We
reached the first dive site at around 4:30pm. This site was called
Magic Gardens and is located at Saxon Reef. Before all dives on
the Spirit of Freedom a member of the crew dives into the water
to check the current direction and strength. This is a very good
safety procedure that other dive companies should take note of.
Here though the currents can be strong and being so far from shore,
diver safety is the prime concern. Another nice point is the very
detailed dive briefings that are given before the dive. Paul the
trip leader generally gave the briefings and would draw a simple
map of the site on a white board. He would also point out the areas
of interest and what you may or may not see on the dive. I have
to say these were about the best briefings I have ever experienced.
.JPG)
Spirit
of Freedom briefing white board
The
visibility on this dive was fairly good and much better than we
were experiencing in Coral Bay and Exmouth in Western Australia.
Visibility was around 20 metres. The site itself had hard and soft
corals and came down to a sandy sea floor. The maximum depth was
around 21 metres and the water temperature was 24C. The corals were
in a good condition here but there were no very large formations.
That said it was still a pretty dive site. Reef fish on the dive
were also quite nice and we managed to see a small hawksbill turtle
feeding in amongst the coral. On entry into the water initially
we also saw a small napoleon fish. Stingrays could also be seen
buried in the sand on the sea floor of this dive. Some were actually
quite large but we did not disturb them to see their full size!
That
finished up the day and we relaxed in the restaurant and had some
drinks and good food. People began to go to their cabins for some
rest soon after because we had left the shelter of the outer Barrier
Reef and were travelling in the open sea. We were to travel overnight
to Osprey Reef, this was to be a difficult trip for me but resting
in the cabin was not too bad. Eventually we managed to get some
sleep but it certainly was not easy because the boat was moving
around so much in the ocean. One thing to note is that everything
should be placed on the floor in your bag if possible. Everything
on the sides of cupboards, etc has zero chance of still being there
in the morning on this trip. I definitely recommend that you take
seasickness pills for at least the first day on the Spirit. This
is a very big and real ocean and it does get rough, everyone was
suffering to some degree so it is worth taking the precaution.
We
were woken around 8:00am for breakfast and we were not going to
reach Osprey Reef until 10:00am. Which meant that we had traveled
for around a 18 hours to get to this reef. The first dive of the
day was to be at a site called "Around the Bend". This
site was on the west side of Osprey Reef around half way up. The
site itself was basically a wall dive with the top of the reef gently
sloping upwards towards the surface. We were to do a drift dive
along the site back towards the Spirit of Freedom. There were multiple
groups of divers so RIBs were used to drop us in the water up current.
We were in a boat with fewer divers and we had an adrenalin filled
trip bouncing over the rough waves. In fact the RIB with many divers
looked like is was about to sink at any moment due to taking on
so much water from the waves! This RIB trip was not to everyone's
tastes and put off some people for the rest of the trip!
Upon
entry into the water the surge was quite extreme near the surface
and the current pushing you in towards the reef was quite strong.
This meant you had to get down under the water quickly and this
should have been a negative buoyancy entry. While waiting for the
groups to join some of the divers were quickly pushed up onto the
top of the reef and had to be picked up by the RIB. For us it was
no issue though and we managed to descend without problems. This
site potentially allows you to go very deep as there is no real
bottom to the site and it drops to 1000 metres or more. The Around
the bend dive site also has a bommie along it's wall, with the top
of this around 35 metres deep. The bommie is known to be a manta
ray cleaning station. The name of the dive site comes from the L
shape which means you basically turn a corner towards the end of
the dive.
The
hard and soft corals on this site were very nice and much better
than we had seen yesterday and the visibility was at least 25 metres
if not more. We did not notice that many reef fish on this dive
and it was most likely due to our eyes tracking the blue water for
pelagics. On this occasion they were fairly scarce but we did see
a turtle and a grey reef shark in the blue water. This site really
can attract any sort of pelagic fish and we were hopeful of seeing
scalloped hammerheads, great hammerheads or manta rays. On this
dive we saw no hammerheads but when doing our safety stop a manta
ray cruised by about 10 metres underneath us. This dive was a nice
start to our trip in the Coral Sea, our maximum depth was around
27 metres.

More
corals at Osprey Reef
The
second dive of the day was again at "Around the Bend".
This time we knew that if we went down deeper to the bommie we would
definitely see manta rays. Some of the crew had dived to check the
current before us and had spotted a few of them around the bommie.
The dive was similar to the first although we kept shallower for
the most part. Here we noticed some nice reef fish such as a shoal
of unicorn fish. Towards the beginning of the dive our guide spotted
a jellyfish in the water that I have to say we had not seen. Some
of the group were quite close to it and it took some frantic waving
from the guide to ensure no one touched it. Apparently this was
a box jellyfish and something you definitely do not want to touch.
The actual jellyfish was small but it had tentacles around 2-3 metres
long beneath and behind it.
While
diving we also managed to see a number of nice sized white tip reef
sharks on this site. When we reached the point of deciding whether
to go to the bommie to see the manta rays or stay shallow, we did
not have to make a decision as we were joined by two manta rays
around 3 metres across. These rays stayed for a while and got fairly
close to a couple of divers. If we had dived down to the bommie
there were another 5 or 6 manta rays down there. All in all a very
nice treat and not what I was expecting at all from Osprey Reef.
Water temperature on the two dives here was 26C and our maximum
depth on the second dive was around 24 metres.
Our
final dive of the day was to be at the "Admiralty" dive
site. We moved the boat to get to this site and it was much more
sheltered. We were to stay here overnight in the calmer water. This
site was made up of numerous bommies some large and some smaller.
Here there were many caves, swim throughs and overhangs to make
the dive an interesting variation to the other dives of the day.
This was a late afternoon dive but there was no chance of it getting
dark on this one. Water temperature was again 26C and our maximum
depth was around 19 metres. The sea floor was once again made up
of sand around the bommies and this made for a pleasant looking
dive site.
Marine
life and coral on the site was good. There are a large amount of
garden eels resident in the sand and this was an impressive sight.
Also one of the bommies has a very large swim through that opens
out into a small cave. To be honest there is not much to see in
here apart from a gorgonian fan and an anchor. Nobody is sure how
the anchor got in here but it is reputed to be Captain Cooks! I
personally think this is unlikely but it is how the site got it's
name. Other fish you could see on this dive were mosaic moray eels,
lion fish, soldier fish, surgeonfish, squirrel fish and some very
large giant trevally underneath the boat, some of these fish looked
well over 1 metre in length.
Saturday
we awoke around 7:00am to the boat again moving to the north end
of Osprey reef. This was to be the most exciting day's diving on
the Spirit of Freedom. We were going to the world famous "North
Horn" dive site. This site is at the most northerly tip of
the Osprey Reef and is therefore washed with strong currents and
this can attract pelagic fish. During the dive briefing we were
told that because our second dive was the shark feed the sharks
may start arriving throughout our first dive. We were also informed
that we may encounter grey reef sharks, hammerhead sharks (scalloped
and great), silvertip sharks, white tip reef sharks, dog tooth tuna,
schooling barracuda, large potato code and napoleon fish to name
but a few! North Horn is again a simple wall dive that is in a L
shape. The normal way to dive is to be dropped on the west side
of the reef and for you to drift to the point of the reef.
With
great expectations, our first dive was to be at around 8:30 in the
morning and upon entering the water the visibility was around 25
metres. Normally this would be considered exceptional but the Coral
Sea can have visibility 30 metres plus. This was mainly due to the
light current we had which was again unusual. This dive was not
made from the RIB due to this fact. The coral on this site was very
nice indeed, especially in the top 10 metres of water. Both the
hard and soft corals were in great condition and very impressive.
There were also a number of very large gorgonian fans. On this dive
we did not see as much as we hoped but our expectations were high!
We managed to see a nice size potato cod at around 1.5 metres in
length, a single grey reef shark which was around 2 metres in length.
We also saw where the shark feed was to be held too but more on
this later. We started the dive going towards the east of the reef
but the current seemed to pick-up the further we went and eventually
we turned back. Our maximum depth was around 27 metres, the water
temperature was again 26C.
Our
second dive of the day was to be the shark feed. Again this dive
had us very excited at the proposition of jumping in with a sea
full of grey reef sharks. This time we were not to be disappointed.
On this dive we dived down to the shark amphitheatre. This is a
natural rocky area that is situated in front of a bommie. We were
only to be at 12 metres depth for this part of the dive. We were
taken down in pairs to the site and it was clear to see that there
were plenty of sharks in the area circling the boat and bommie.
We were told that once we were seated on the rocks and everyone
was comfortable the feed would begin. Once started they cannot stop
the feed until the food is exhausted so everyone has to stay still
and not move. The feed normally lasts around 20 minutes so air is
not a problem at this depth. If something goes wrong another set
of gear is taken by one of the guides just in case. Before the dive
it was also mentioned that if a large shark entered the feed then
Paul would abandon the dive and we would go up on to the top of
the reef away from the danger to be picked up by a RIB. Diving with
a tiger shark with food in the water is not recommended for example!


Shark
feed - North Horn, Osprey Reef
The
food itself takes the form of very large tuna fish heads on a heavy
chain. These are stored in a metal bin and then when the lid is
lifted a buoy lifts them up out of the bin and into view. Understandably
this starts the action and the sharks and other fish start to feed.
On this dive we saw around 6 to 8 white tip reef sharks and probably
20-30 grey reef sharks. Also around were one or two large potato
cod. Near the end of the dive a large silvertip came into view briefly.
This shark was around 3 metres long. As said previously the feed
goes on for around 20 minutes and it really is an exhilarating sight!
Once the food has been eaten we were then allowed to leave the rocky
part of the reef and look for shark teeth on the bommie or go out
with the sharks in the blue water. This was a great experience and
just what we had been expecting. This part of the dive allows you
to get really close to the sharks and get some nice photos. The
visibility was similar to the morning dive and although not the
best the Coral Sea has to offer, it was very good. On this dive
we also spotted some large dog tooth tuna and the very nice corals
again on the west side of the wall.

Shark
Feed - North Horn
The
third dive of the day was again to be at North Horn. This dive was
a more conventional drift dive along the west side of the reef back
to the Spirit of Freedom. Not that many divers decided to do the
drift dive due to still reasonably rough conditions. We were one
of the lucky few! This for me was the best dive of the trip. The
visibility was 30 plus metres and there was a nice current running
back towards the Spirit of Freedom. Here the corals are at their
very best. Both hard and soft corals and some very large gorgonian
fans. Marine life was very nice too, our first encounter was with
a large silver tip shark who was quite inquisitive. Passing us once
close by and then returning back towards us head on, only to turn
away a few metres from us. This was a 3 metre shark and definitely
deserved some respect from us! On this dive we went fairly deep
straight away to around 28 metres and this paid off with the silvertip
close encounter and another 10 or more grey reef sharks around 10
metres below us. During the dive in the blue water we saw a large
shoal of barracuda and a number of dogfish tuna. Towards the end
of the drift we encountered another large potato cod that was hovering
near a bommie and allowed us to get very close. All in all a very
memorable dive!
For
the final dive of the day the Spirit of Freedom moved to another
dive site named Castles. This dive is made up of many bommies some
large and some small. The sea floor is mostly sandy. The site is
called castles because some of the bommies go right up to the drop
off. Therefore if you are looking up from the deep water it looks
like a castle battlement. Another suggested experience is to go
right to the edge of the reef and look down over the drop off. Although
we could not see as far as normal due to the poor light. This dive
did not start until after 5pm so by the end of the dive it was getting
quite dark. This was fine and gave an opportunity to view the changeover
from day to night underwater. Many people actually prefer dusk dives
to night dives. This dive was interesting and we saw a number of
different creatures such as a shrimp goby and its companion blind
shrimp hidden in the sand and various anemone crabs and hermit crabs
too. Other marine life spotted included an octopus, a couple of
active white tip sharks, small napoleon fish, turtle and anemone
fish. This site was very enjoyable and had many overhangs and swim
throughs that were filled with soldier fish. Again a very different
dive from North Horn but one that we enjoyed very much.
After
dinner on this day we began the long trek back to the outer barrier
reef. The next day was to be on the ribbon reef structure and famous
reefs like Andy's postcard and Steve's bommie. It would also give
us a chance of seeing Minke whales which are migrating through the
area at this time of year. Only the week before, the Cod Hole trip
on the Spirit of Freedom had managed to see Minke whales at Steve's
bommie. Again we were very much looking forward to the day's diving.
The
first dive of the day was at Andy's postcard. This dive was made
much more difficult due to some choppy water and a very strong surface
current that would drift you quickly away from the boat and the
dive site. A number of divers here had problems due to not submerging
quickly enough and being dragged away. That said the RIB quickly
picked these dives up and towed them back to the site.
Andy's
postcard was a fairly small bommie that is covered in some very
nice soft corals, anemones and hard corals. The bommie is larger
at the bottom that the top and the top is around 5 metres from the
surface. The top of the bommie is a plateau which has some nice
coral formations. The fish life was very nice around the site with
anthias all round the coral formations making it very pretty especially
in the top 10 metres of water. On this site the fish life was prolific
with fish shoaling in the area around the bommie. Around this area
schooling trevally and fusiliers were common and in large numbers,
very nice indeed. Of note we also saw a very large barracuda sitting
ominously in the water and also some dog tooth tuna. Another nice
feature of this site was a archway which was encrusted in hard coral.
Underneath the coral formations, anemones and their anemone fish
are resident. This again is a nice spot and a good place for photography.
On top of the bommie there were some large plate type corals, probably
the largest we had seen on the entire Coral Sea trip. The water
temperature here was around a degree colder at 25C. Maximum depth
on this dive was fairly shallow at 19 metres. The visibility here
was fairly good and probably around 20 metres.
Our
second and third dives of the day were to be at Steve's bommie.
This site is similar to Andy's Postcard but in my opinion even better.
The visibility here was around 20 to 25 metres and the water temperature
again 25C. Steve's bommie was named after a dive instructor that
was tragically killed. He used to frequent this site so often that
it was apt to name it after him. A plaque commemorates him on this
reef at around 25 metres depth. When we visited the plaque was quite
hard to read unfortunately. For this site we made a giant stride
boat entry and snorkeled around 30 metres to the dive site. The
surface was calm and there was very little current.
The
best way to dive Steve's bommie is descend to about 25 metres and
slowly swim in a clockwise direction while rising towards the surface.
The bommie is quite thin so you can rotate around it maybe as many
as five or six times. Most of the life around the bommie is in the
top 20 metres so going deeper does not have much reward. One side
of the bommie is quite bare and rocky but has various nudibranches
and also a red flame file-shell. This is an amazing sight and is
basically a clam with a deep red colour and what looks like electricity
running through the middle of it.
The
other side of the bommie is very nice with great fish life everywhere.
There is also a small save on the site and when we were there a
small white tip reef shark was resting inside it. Coral on the site
is nice and there are gorgonian sea fans, Initially the first thing
we noticed was the sheer numbers of fish in a small area gold band
goat fish and blue lined snapper shoal in big groups that are not
afraid of divers. So much so that they envelop you if you swim slowly
up to them. A really great experience! Also shoaling are fusiliers
and big eye trevally. Lots of other species of reef fish are present
such as unicorn fish, stone fish, lion fish, barracuda, giant trevally,
hunting mackerel, dog tooth tuna, clown fish and pipefish to name
but a few. A very large nudibranch was also seen on the rocky side
of the bommie near the flame file-shell.

The
top of this dive site is also incredible and very pretty. At only
around 5 metres depth the top of the bommie has amazing hard and
soft corals and many anemones. This is a great opportunity to photo
anemone fish and they are everywhere! Also anthias are all over
the bommie and make it very nice dive site.
Maximum
depth was 22 metres on the first dive and 17 metres on the second
dive, temperature was again 25C. The only drawback of this site
is that due to its small size it is easy to get tangled up with
other divers. Unfortunately we were unlucky and did not see the
Minke whales on this trip. Still leaves something to see next time!
The
final dive of the trip was at Flare point. Here you could dive left
or right from the Spirit of Freedom and upon entering the water
we decided for the left option. The left option took in more of
the amazing coral and many different unusual variations and formations.
On the most part the site consists of small coral bommies with a
sandy floor. Fish life was not great however of note we only saw
a big pufferfish and some large sweetlips. We were told that we
would see turtles on this dive but unfortunately we were unlucky
this time. Also for those divers with a keen eye you could see some
rock mover wrasse who move around massive rocks when compared to
their size and also the mantis shrimp. Maximum depth was only 13
metres, visibility was no more than 20 metres. Water temperature
was 25C.
This
was our last dive to end a fantastic trip. We arrived back in Cairns
the following morning at around 7:00am after another rough night
at sea! The diving in the Coral Sea and the outer barrier reef was
everything we hoped it would be. The Spirit of Freedom comes highly
recommended. The staff are so helpful and do all they can to make
your time enjoyable and the facilities are everything I hoped the
liveaboard experience would offer.
Only
thing left to do is to go again and try and see those hammerhead
sharks and minke whales that we missed!
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